Police hat count slowly mounting

As reported earlier Democratic Republic of Congo was not nearly as bad as expected but it was expensive, that was expected. Everyone wanted payment, usually in US dollars. We did Pont Noire to Cabinda to DRC in one day and had good Chinese graded sand piste to Manda by the same afternoon. Straight to Manda airport where the ATC guy was very helpful but his boss was very risk adverse and would not give permission for us to use his airport. By the time we had waited for him to arrive, it was late and dark by the time we hit town. The side roads were almost impassable and the hotel we had programmed into our Satnavs was closed. An English speaking local came with us to find another where we were relieved to park for the night and made a very early start on Thursday morning intending to cross into Angola that afternoon. However just before Boma we saw a sign to the airport we did not know was there. 5kms down a bad track we reached the active airport, 2 flights a day: Kinshasa to Boma to Matadi and return in the afternoon. We were interviewed by the ATC gentleman (good English), the Director and Immigration Officer. Payment was agreed for use of the airport if the flight was successful. We waited til 4pm before preparing the basket and burner and strapping it on the back of the Enterprise. Everyone was friendly and very interested and I had long conversations in French. I am sad we are through all French speaking countries now. My Portuguese is not so good! We drove down to the runway and waited for the wind to ease. I entertained the men with water and crisps and chatted while Chris watched the windsock and flag. Unfortunately the gusts did not die and so we had to cancel. What a disappointment after everything was set up. We wanted to sleep at the airport and try in the morning, guarded by the soldiers, but it was not allowed - we think the airport staff did not trust the army. It was nearly dark again by the time we were on our way, worrying about where to spend the night. Through the next toll where drunk young men were taunting us, and another extravagant payment, towards Boma when we passed a well lit oil refinery. We had seen lots of oil wells but this was for palm oil not crude. The guard, when asked, said he would talk to the boss about us parking outside for the night, saying as he was a Christian he might agree. Two Europeans emerged (we think Italian) and invited us to park inside where we had a peaceful, secure night with the comforting hum of machinery.

On Friday we drove on potholed tar road through Boma on the banks of the wide Congo which was very impressive not far from its mouth, to Matadi where we crossed the suspension bridge over the river (another toll) and on to the border near Songololo. The 2 towns were a chaotic jumble of markets and traffic of all sorts but very very entertaining. At Songololo a policeman with perfect English greeted us and was willing to swap his DRC police hat for a Bobby's helmet and a dollar contribution. So no flight but success with the hat.

The border at Lufu was the most African border we have ever experienced and I cannot find words to describe it. We were very pleased to reach Angola. Our night in a dead end of old road was very calm and we woke to a view of hills and valleys filled with mist. It was an easy drive into Mbanza-Congo to change money and fill with fuel and water. Then onwards to N'zeto on the coast and a perfect fast road. At 4.30 yesterday we saw a sign to the beach 3km down a sand track and decided to try it. A policeman in the only building asked in sign language if we wanted to spend the night . . . To be continued